British Columbia Roscoe Inlet

Roscoe Inlet: Bitter Endings

Monday, July 08, 2013S.V. CAMBRIA

Travelling up Roscoe Inlet

We left Shearwater yesterday morning and made way for Boukind Bay at the mouth of Roscoe Inlet.  And today, we motored to the “Bitter End”, one of my favourite places from last season.    

The trip begins one mile south of Boukind Bay at Roscoe Narrows and “goose-necks” back and forth for 12 nautical miles into the mainland.  Apart from a small section of logging just inside, the area is pristine and appears as it did hundreds of years ago – no trace of man exists, something that greatly appeals to both of us.  Once past the narrows, the serpentine route is lined with steep granite domes which rise 1,000 metres (3,300 feet) in the air and disappear vertically into the sea below.  The dark grey granite walls overhang the water while evergreens cling on vertical ledges filling in cracks wherever possible.  It’s surely one of the most beautiful places along the BC coast, if not the world.

When we did the trip last year, it was overcast without a breath of wind and the entire scene was dramatic, much like travelling through an Ansel Adams photograph.  But that was last year.  This year the sun was out and so were the deer flies.  I don’t think I can stress enough just how annoying these creatures are . . . and painful.  They bite through clothing (including jeans) and leave welts that can last for weeks.  If you accidentally touch one of the welts, it’ll itch like no mosquito bite you’ve ever known before.  And avoiding being bit takes priority over just about everything else . . . including scenery, no matter how beautiful it is. 

Once we reached the “Bitter End” of Roscoe Inlet, we dropped a lunch hook and waited for the tide to turn.  Here lies an entirely different scene:  To the east, there’s a snow-capped ridge.  And to the southwest, a large grassy meadow on the valley floor where it’s easy to imagine grizzly bears coming down to feed.  Last year I was able to spend the time in the kayak, taking pictures and enjoying the view.  This year, we could only hunker down below decks and hide from the deer flies – hardly the same experience.    

Somewhat disappointed, we returned to Boukind Bay for the night where we’ll stay one more day.  David has some jobs he’d like to do on the boat, so he’s going to take care of them tomorrow and we’ll continue south to Ocean Falls on Wednesday – signalling that our time along the Central Coast is quickly coming to an end. 

The "bitter end" of Roscoe Inlet

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